HOW MUCH???
To determine how much yarn or thread you will need for a project, see how many motifs (or rows) you can get out of one skein of yarn or ball of thread. Then figure how many motifs/rows it will take to make the project as large as you want. Divide the number of motifs/rows you need for the project by the number of motifs/rows you got out of one skein or ball and you have how many skeins or balls you need to buy to finish the project.
VIEWER TIP:
Hello, Lisa.
I have a tip. When crocheting from instructions, I use a post-it-note to keep
my place. I just stick it down on the line I am on, and as I progress, I just
unstick it and place it on the next line, etc.
If I need to take notes as to how many repeats I did, I can write right on
that same piece of post-it-note. Or if I discover an error I can write it
down right away on that same post-it-note. Then I can just leave it stuck to
that page and if someday I want to crochet that item again, my note will
still be there. I won't have to rediscover it the next time.
Hope this has been a help to your readers,
Dorothy W.
When you fasten off a project weave the ends back through with a yarn needle instead of a hook.
This makes the ends more secure in your project and it's less of a chance that the ends to unravel.
The term "turn" in a crochet pattern means to turn the work over and crochet in the opposite direction.
VIEWER TIP:
"You can put this in if you like since so many people are wanting to know
about the cro-hook lately I would like to post a tip for the cro-hook------
so many times I have seen on message boards that there are no patterns for
the cro-hook, well here is my tip------------
any pattern or stitch used for the afghan stitch needle can also be used with
a cro-hook."
Evelyn in Kentucky
Thanks Evelyn!
Decreasing can also be done by skipping stitches.
Decreasing may be referred to as "crocheting the next two stitches together" or "decreasing over the next two stitches".
This tip is in regard to Broomstick Lace. I couldn't find the large knitting needle needed for this type of crochet anywhere in our town so I took an old broom handle and cut it in half with a Swiss Army Knife. Then I whittled the end down till it resembled the knitting needle. I took sandpaper and sanded the point till it looked like I wanted it. To keep the stitches from sliding off the other end I wrapped a rubber band around it. I've added a picture so you can see my finished product.
The asterisk ( * ) is used in a pattern to specify the repeating of certain instructions.
For example, if a pattern says " * sk next st, dc in next st. Repeat from * across."
This means that you skip the next stitch and do a double crochet stitch in the next stitch then you back up to the * and do it over and over till you get all the way across. Sometimes a pattern will contain an asterisk on both sides of a set of instructions. In this case the pattern should state that these instructions are to be repeated somewhere in the project.
VIEWER TIP: " I have found that a size l3 or l6 needle works well for weaving in the stray threads. In fact I have always used this method. I get the yarn in the needle with a needle threader. "
Bernice
When crocheting stitches that have numerous loops (such as the puff stitch),
pull up the loops very loosely to make drawing through several loops easier.
HOW TO MAKE A POM POM:
Wind yarn around a piece of 3-4 inch wide cardboard (width depends on how big you want the pom pom) about 40-50 times (how many times you wrap it depends on how full you want the pom pom to be). Slide the wrapped yarn off of the cardboard and tie a long piece of yarn around the center of the bunch. Cut both ends of the folded yarn so that you have a bunch of individual pieces. This should begin to look like a pom pom. Now hold the long yarn strands and shake it over a trash can then use scissors to trim it till it is round. Now use the long strands to tie it to your project (i.e. hat).
You may need to experiment with the size (how big for the cardboard
and how many times you wrap) to get the size you want but this is an easy
method to use.
To figure out how much time an afghan will take to complete,
time yourself while crocheting one row, one motif, etc.
Then multiply by the number of rows or motifs needed for the project. This
helps you determine how long
you need to work on the afghan each day or week to finish the project before
a certain date.
Don't forget to allow time if the afghan requires a border :o)
BE CREATIVE: Don't be afraid to try different types of materials.
I've crocheted with regular yarn, specialty yarns, fabric, embroidery floss,
thread, & rope to name a few. You can create very interesting items
when you change the material used in a project.
Always keep a crochet project packed and ready to go. That
way it's ready to take with you when you have to leave the house and you're
never away from home without your crocheting.
Unless otherwise indicated in a pattern, always insert hook
UNDER both loops of the stitch of the previous row.
There will always be one loop left on the hook at the completion of a stitch.
When counting stitches in a completed row, do NOT count the loop left on
the hook.
QUICK ACCESS TO CROCHET HOOKS:
I keep some of my crochet hooks in a pencil holder. the kind with 4-5 sections
of different
heights that some people use on their desks to hold pencils, scissors, etc.
I also have a set of cosmetic bags my husband gave me for
my birthday. One is almost as big as a cement block and the other two are
smaller, like make-up bags you carry in your purse. I keep my sewing stuff
in one of the small bags and my crochet hooks, etc in the other small bag.
Then I store both small bags in the larger one. This makes it easier to
keep track of my tools and by keeping sewing and crocheting tools together
it's easier for me. If I need to sew something on a project I'm crocheting
I don't have to look for that darn needle and thread :o)
JOINING MOTIFS
There are several ways to join motifs. Join motifs by crocheting them together. Place
two square motifs side by side and join in a corner stitch on one motif,
do a slip stitch, then chain one and do a slip stitch in the corresponding
stitch on the other motif. Continue doing a slip stitch, chain 1, back and
forth between the motifs.
You can find directions on several ways to join motifs here:
KEEP YARN CLEAN WHILE WORKING:
Wash and dry a 2 liter soda bottle.
Remove the plastic piece from the bottom.
Cut the main bottom off of the bottle.
Insert a skein of yarn with the working end out the spout and put the plastic
piece back on the bottom of the bottle.
Insert the pattern you are working from in a plastic sheet
protector and use a dry erase marker to mark off the rows completed.
When weaving in yarn ends use a hook 2-3 sizes smaller.
It makes getting into those stitches alot easier.
If your yarn splits when you're crocheting just take out
a few stitches and do them again.
(Example:. A yarn split is when you end up with only
1, 2 or 3 plies of the 4 ply yarn on the hook after a stitch)
Use a piece of yarn in a contrasting color to mark your
stitches when you don't have an actual "stitch marker" handy.
If you decide to tackle a very complex pattern, make a copy
of the pattern and write
"working copy" on the page. Then you can write notes on it, mark
off rows finished, etc.
This will keep you from trashing your good patterns.
When you finish the project just tear up the working copy and throw it away.
When you have to stop crocheting on a project (temporarily,
I hope), pull the loop that is on your
hook out about six inches so there's no danger of losing any stitches when
you pick it back up.
When teaching someone to crochet, teach a method of holding
the yarn before teaching a stitch.
(I have tried several times, unsuccessfully, to teach my 5 year old neice
to crochet. But recently, using the above method, I taught her to hold her
yarn like I do and she was doing a chain stitch in about 5 minutes.)
When a pattern calls for working with two strands of the
same color/type of yarn.. work with the strand from the center of the skein
and the strand from the outside of the skein at the same time. Believe it
or not, this method seems to tangle less than using two separate skeins
of yarn.
Use a Post-it Note on a pattern to keep track of rows.
(write down the number of each row and each time a row if finished, just
draw a line through it)
I purchased a plastic book stand/holder for $1 at one of
those "everything $1" stores. It works well for holding a pattern
while I crochet and doubles as a note holder when I work on my website.
When converting grams to ounces and ounces to grams:
100 grams = about 3-1/2 ounces.
Number of grams X .035 = the number of ounces.
Number of ounces divided by .035 = the number of grams.
YARN SUBSTITUTION CHART
*****
I hope the following chart will help you to choose the type of yarn you
wish to use in a project. At times I've wanted to use a different type of
yarn than what a pattern called for and I had to guess which yarn to use.
Most of the time, any yarn that is of a similar weight and texture can be
easily substituted for another yarn of the same weight and texture. Also,
smaller weight yarns can be substituted for bulkier weight yarns by using
double or even triple strands of the smaller yarn to achieve the same thickness.
(Be careful when substituting yarn sizes as this could change the yardage
needed for a project.)
YARN EQUIVALENTS
The following yarn equivalents are only a suggestion.
Please use your own judgment with choosing yarn for your project.
Crochet 'N' More will not be held responsible for the use of this information.
| 2 strands of fingering weight |
= |
1 strand of sport weight |
| 2 strands of sport weight |
= |
1 strand of worsted weight |
| 2 strands of worsted weight |
= |
1 strand of bulky |
| 3 strands of worsted weight |
= |
1 strand of super bulky or chunky |
Make granny squares with leftover yarn as soon as you finish
a project to keep scraps to a minimum.
The granny squares can be used to make afghans to give for gifts or to donate
to nursing homes in your area.
Check out Charity Links to see what else
you can donate.
Always weave yarn ends in as you are crocheting whenever
possible. Your project will look neater and this eliminates dreading to
end a project because you don't like weaving in the yarn ends.
Whenever you stop working on a crochet project, pull the yarn out a few inches
so that your work doesn't get unraveled when you start to work on it again. I never did like to lose even one stitch.
STIFFENING AND BLOCKING
"There are a few liquid products on the market which
are made specifically for stiffening lace, doilies, ribbon, and other soft
items. When using a stiffener, be sure to saturate your crocheted piece
thoroughly, and to remove as much of the excess stiffener as you can before
drying. Read the instructions on the product you select. Baskets and other
shaped, free-standing pieces should be prepared with full-strength stiffener.
For a softer look, suitable for doilies which do not need a lot of shaping,
stiffener can be thinned up to 50% with water. Forms for shaping can be
many things. Styrofoam shapes and plastic margarine tubs work well for items
such as bowls and bells. For shaping doilies, make a pinned board from a
24" square of corrugated cardboard. It is helpful to mark the board
in 1" squares, and to draw a series of widening circles out from the
center of the board. Place the dry crochet piece over the form to check
fit, remembering that it will stretch more when wet. Cover all surfaces
of forms or board with clear plastic wrap, securing with tape. For saturating,
place the crocheted piece in a zip-close plastic bag. Pour on stiffener,
work into crochet before closing bag. Add more stiffener if needed, and
squeeze bag to thoroughly saturate crochet. Lay bag flat, press our excess
air, and seal bag. Allow to stand for at least 15 minutes, so stiffener
can be further absorbed. Squeeze out excess stiffener and blot thorougly
with paper towels. Stretch, shape and pin over form or on board, continuing
to blot excess stiffener from small holes in crochet. Allow to dry. Unpin
when dry, and brush off excess stiffener flakes with an old toothbrush.
If a flat piece buckles in the middle of drying, it can be reflattened by
ironing between two dish towels. Remove towels and lay flat to cool. A stiffened
piece may be cleaned with a damp cloth. If it becomes badly soiled or dusty,
it may be washed in warm soapy water and restiffened."....ABC's
of Crochet.
